There was a time when I walked into my house on a Friday night and I wasn’t just smelling dinner. It was the aroma of history in the making.
Decades of tradition and love went into all Grandma Lola’s meals set at the dinner table, but it was her famous red cheese enchiladas recipe that stood out each time she made them. Though I knew her as Grandma, her full name was Dolores Valverde, and she made everything from scratch.
That’s what made them special.
During the early spring, my memory of her enchiladas is the strongest.
For many, the season of Lent is about what we sacrifice. A 40-day block of time set aside each year for fasting, where the exclusion of meat on Fridays serves as a reminder of faith. But in Grandmother’s kitchen, it was an anticipated event all in the family looked forward to.
When some think of enchiladas they think of soggy tacos with a bunch of sauce and cheese on top, but they are way more complicated than that. In the world of food and restaurants we live in today, everything’s about fusion and the idea of “food is art.” However, when it comes to good Southwestern red enchiladas, you can’t beat tradition.
What sets Grandma Lola’s enchiladas apart from the soggy versions found in many Tex-Mex restaurants is the Hatch red chile New Mexico is famous for. The quality of the chile is what authentic enchiladas are defined by. Many consider Hatch chile part of New Mexican heritage. She also insisted every seed was removed from the peppers beforehand. They had to be medium, not too mild and not too hot, so all could absorb the flavor without distraction from lack of taste or burning lips.
Beyond the technique was the emotional element behind every meal made by Grandma Lola. Her kitchen was the center and heartbeat of the home. Eating her enchiladas wasn’t just about filling our appetites, it was about remembering where we came from.
A famous quote by an unknown author captures the sentiment: “Grandma’s cooking isn’t just food – it’s love served warm, with a pinch of memory.”
I think Grandma Lola knew this way before it was written.
Entering her kitchen was not just a pit stop for a quick meal. It was a reminder that every ingredient and task was worth the extra effort.
I remember fondly how the assembly line began. I would usually grate the cheese and someone else would cut the onions. It was important to my grandmother the kitchen was quiet so we could all pay attention and retain what we were learning so we could pass on this tradition.
Chef and restaurateur Thomas Keller put it best when he wrote, “A recipe has no soul. You, as the cook, must bring soul to the recipe.”
With that, I’m happy to include what brought our family together every Friday during the Lent season.
Grandma Lola’s Hatch Red Chile Enchiladas
Ingredients
- The sauce: 8 oz Hatch dried red chile pods (stems/seeds removed), 3 garlic cloves, 1 tsp salt, 2 cups water
- The Roux (paste): 1 tsp Olive oil, 1 tsp flour.
- The assembly: 12 corn tortillas, ½ cup canola oil (for frying), 1 cup shredded Colby cheese, 1 small white onion (finely chopped).
- Optional: 4 eggs fried to top or layer
Instructions
Prepare the red chile sauce
- After removing stems, veins and seeds, rinse the pods in cool water.
- Place pods in a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 15-20 minutes. Stir occasionally to ensure all pods soften evenly.
- Drain the water and let the pods cool. Add them to a blender with 3 garlic cloves, 1 tsp salt and 2 cups of fresh water. Bend until completely smooth.
Thicken the sauce
- In a saucepan, combine 1 tsp olive oil and 1 tsp flour. Toast over medium heat until the flour turns a nice golden brown.
- Pour the blended chile sauce into the pan with the toasted flour. Simmer for about 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened to your liking.
Prep the tortillas
- Heat canola oil in a small frying pan. Fry each corn tortilla for just a few seconds on each side; you want them soft and pliable, not crispy.
- Stack them with paper napkins in between to soak up the extra oil.
Assembly
- Dip a fried tortilla into the warm red sauce until fully coated.
- Lay the tortilla down on a plate. Sprinkle with Colby cheese and chopped onions as desired.
- Repeat and continue process until you have a stack. Optional fried eggs placed on top or between layers.
Tip – For extra smooth red chile sauce, you can filter the blended chile through a strainer before adding to the roux to capture any remaining bits of skin.
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